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Black Miata Restoration

So, my a good friend has a black 1.8L Miata that has not probably been detailed or taken care of it’s whole life. I spent about 1 whole night and the next day’s morning prepping it out for him. Car isย a daily driven car, with the original paint except for the hardtop and rattlecan flat black from when he crashed the car driving canyons.

It’s a pretty sweet car, and has a rollbar, hardtop, upgraded seat, exhaust, and a few other bolt ons.

I will explain the process i did first, before you see the before, during and after pictures.

Wash: Started off with a bucket of automotive car shampoo, some Meguiars Fine Bodyshop/Professional Claybar, Microfiber Wash Mitt, and some Microfiber towels.

-Washed the car once over, and clayed the whole car. It was pretty bad so i had to use a good 1/2 a claybar finishing the whole car.

Dried off with a microfiber, and started polishing the corner of the hood. But, you can see how bad it is.

So i went over the whole car with Autoglym Extra Abrasive Polish with an Orange cutting pad and the combined effort of a rotary polisher and random orbit polisher.

^ Not too bad considering it’s all original 12 + year old paint, but the rock chips are all visible still regardless and so are the cracks and chips in the windshield. Still needs more polishing to bring out the depth in the paint.

So, I went ahead and used a softer grey and white buff pad with my random orbit with some Meguiars #80 Speed Glaze and Menzerna Final Polish. Topped it off with some Autoglym Radiant wax polish as a nice sealant and glaze to hold up well against the elements. As a final icing on the cake, and due to the nature of black cars, i added some Autoglym High Definition Wax. For the trim i used some plastic conditioner and silicone spray to condition the mudguards, R lip, and the trim.

It finally looked like the way it was supposed to look. I always enjoy side restoration projects like these. This will probably save this car a repaint at least for a good few more years.

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NEW: tanabe NF210 for 2008 Accord Coupe V6

Arrving THIS WEEK!!!

NF210 Springs: 2008 Honda Accord Coupe V6

http://www.tanabe-usa.com/suspension/files/534_img2.jpg

LOWERING DATA:

FRONT: 1.3 inchย  /ย  REAR: 1.3 inch

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Afro Ninja and Friends, Ikkyu-san Can Beat Them All UP! LOL!

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Doomsday Damage!!

Sweet & Low S13 + Metal Plate on the Street =

T’was a sad sad weekend ๐Ÿ™ Stay tuned for more updates!

-M.

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Stress @ work !!!


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Chargespeed Subaru Impreza GRB Widebody Kit

Coming Soon!

2008 Subaru Impreza GRB

Chargespeed Widebody Kit


Body Includes:

Front Bumper Spoiler, Side Steps, Rear Bumper Spoiler

20mm Front Wider Fender

20mm Rear Wide Blister Fender with door panel pcs.

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Come To Falcon in Hollywood Every Wednesday!

Falcon

7213 W Sunset Bl

Hollywood, CA

90046

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SSR Type F, Nissan 370Z

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Alignment Day

Hello again everybody!,

This weekend was a long one… for the longest time, my alignment has been off, and it’s because some of my alignment parts were broken. I finally got around to replacing the parts, and it was time to do the installation.

On the checklist: Four new eccentric bolts for the rear alignment, 4 new washers for those bolts, and two new tie rod boots for the front suspension. I bought the new boots from Napa Online. It seems like Kragen and Autozone don’t normally stock these parts, but they were available online. It only took like three days to get these to my door, and they only cost around 12 bucks each. Not bad considering the OEM boots from the Nissan dealership is something like 50 dollars each! The eccentric bolts with new washers costed about 40 dollars total — kind of expensive for bolts, but I had no choice. I couldn’t find any other place to get these besides at the dealership.

So, I started by lifting the rear of the car into the air. And, as a side-note, check out my exhaust couplers. I guess all that street scraping shaved the bottom of one of my couplers completely flat. Also, one of the bolts fell out. If anyone knows where to get a replacement for these things please let me know. ๐Ÿ˜

So anyways, here’s a picture of one of my old worn-out eccentric bolts. You can see the groove — that’s normal, but you can also see a bunch of scratch marks. That’s from the cam washer slipping past its spot on the groove and damaging the threads of the bolt, simultaneously screwing up the alignment of the rear end. ๐Ÿ™ I can’t really complain though because I’m pretty sure these are the original alignment parts that came on the car back in 1997. So, I expected them to be a little worn.

After installing the new bolts, I had to realign the car. And yea, I do this in my backyard. It takes…. FOREVER! But, I can do this accurately enough so that my car doesn’t veer when I let go of the wheel, and the steering wheel is straight when the car’s moving straight. I mean, it’s not bad considering I just use a plumb bob hanging from a short thread, a ruler, and a t-square. ๐Ÿ™‚ I’m going to take my car to my friend’s alignment place next weekend to see how accurate my backyard alignment is haha. It’s a pretty decent process, the only bad thing is that I don’t have the tools to measure caster angle for the front.

After a while, the sun started going down, and I wasn’t done aligning the car yet. There’s a pic of my car floating in the air, “burning the midnight oil.” … or more like the 9:00 PM oil.

Finally, there’s a pic of my old tie rod boots. These things should always be kept in check. And make sure to re-lubricate the joints that these boots are supposed to protect. I have a friend who neglected these things for a while. He was driving around with torn boots for a long time. When he finally inspected the tie rods, he noticed a lot of play in the parts there — like a dangerous amount. It’s a good thing he replaced the parts when he did. Anyways, keep ’em in check!

That’s it for Now! See Ya Again Next Time!

-M.

 

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